Crédits : Pascallel Piacka. Translation: Jill Harry. Pictures: RR
Gastronomy
Hostellerie de Levernois
At La Table de Levernois, gastronomy means harmony, with star-rated Chef Philippe Augé unfurling his talent. Dinner is served!
Close to Beaune, in the Burgundy known for its prestigious vineyards, L'Hostellerie de Levernois opens its doors to gourmets. Head for La Table de Levernois. "I'm lucky," says the Chef. "The restaurant is full every day." La Table echoes its local terroir, warm, inventive, with contemporary touches. Here, Epicureans are at ease in a dining-room bathed in light with views of the park, crossed by the river. Star-rated cuisine immediately enchants the tastebuds...
Backed by his kitchen brigade, the Chef runs "a large family - with no stars". Pillars include Rémy de Barros, his "second de cuisine", pastry-chef Jean-Marc Diop, sommeliers Philippe Meurger and David Kubler, and Bernard Bruyer. The head Maître d' shares his passion for local produce with the guests.
At La Table de Levernois, the region's finest products take pride of place, together with produce from the hotel's large organic vegetable garden. "I have an excellent gardener (Laurent Laroche). My market gardener is close by, in Chalon-sur-Saône. I work on ingredients, that's my role. Cooking then comes naturally." Refined and updated with passion, his cuisine is flavoursome and vibrant. From his ovens, he serves dishes of Burgundian inspiration: "Risotto Acquerello, frog's legs and Burgundy snails, mild garlic cream, poultry from Bresse in two servings, chicken supreme with herbs, legs and strips of chicken in mixed salad".
Elegance and drifting fragrances are the key words. "My ingredients come from within a radius of less than 200 km. I order half beefs. We use all the meat," he explains, adding a plethora of marvellous examples such as Matured Charolais beef from Guillaume Verdin, marrow, mousseline and apple soufflé, sauce with Pinot Noir, plus enticing desserts: warm soufflé with Grand Marnier, blood orange sorbet, all exquisite... "Guests are looking for traditional dishes, real French cuisine," says the Chef. They also appreciate delicate pairings of dishes and wines… unique, unusual creations. Sublime! A fine culinary surprise guaranteed.
Guests sit down at table with growing anticipation… Dishes call for wine and heavenliness. Here, the cuisine is delicious, tasty and masterful. And the service is discreet and always attentive. "I want each guest's visit to be an adventure," says the mischievous chef… Like a tightly-knit rugby team, the kitchen brigade is ready for the famous kick-off. "We are here to ensure our guests' enjoyment," he adds, very moved.
Quite often, sentimental decisions give rise to much-loved places. La Table de Levernois embodies refinement… And after dessert (and/or coffee), a stroll in the park is a charming way to appreciate the hospitality of Burgundy; which can only be left with deep regret….
Accompanied by gardeners Laurent, Emmanuel and Hacène, come visit the Hostellerie's vegetable garden. "For the organization, I plant small root vegetables, green salads, varieties of tomatoes, and aromatic herbs for dishes. I get on really well with Chef Philippe Augé," says Laurent. The garden covers about 2,200 sqm comprised of 1,000 sqm plus a greenhouse of 400 sqm and 800 sqm of (active) cultivation land.
"Everything is grown organically, with no pesticides. We grow traditional old vegetables (carrots, rutabaga, squash, pumpkins), much appreciated by clients. Each year, we replant thyme, rosemary, chives and basil. For this summer, I have also planted small artichokes." The vegetable garden thus holds no secrets for this creator of colour, aged 64. "Mademoiselle trusts me. So I pursue my mission with passion!"
